With ethnic food through the Bronx by bike
Already for those coming by taxi, New York makes an impression that touches all senses. But on a bike, New York's impressions literally knock us out. Including Nadja. Laughing she says her boyfriend was a little sarcastic. After all, he gave the 33-year old woman a gas mask as a farewell gift at Frankfurt Airport. "People going on a nine-day bike trip through New York City need a psychologist and breathing protection," was his comment. Granted, the idea is definitely a little bananas. But the people in our group are all quite open, friendly and surely not in need of a shrink. And the same goes for the gas mask. "More than half of the route will lead through the green and car-free lung of New York City," said Thorsten Haase our tour guide on board the Singapore Airlines plane. Thorsten is Managing Director of the Landpartie tour operator and primarily acts as an interpreter for the two people in our group of 13 who do not speak English too well. Our actual guide is the New York artist Steve Silver. He will lead us through his city by bike. "Hi folks," he greets us in the minibus on our way to the Holiday Inn Express Hotel. "In nine days, you'll know New York better than most New Yorkers do." Then, Steve Silver gave everybody a comfortable 21-gear bike and adjusted each saddle. Steve looks after the bikes by himself – with a great deal of dedication. None of hi s customers has ever had a flat, as he uses expensive, flat-proof tires.
Then we start off along East River. As we see the skyline of the "big apple", Nadja cheers aloud. "It's even greater than I'd imagined."  The warm-up tour leads across Brooklyn Bridge. We take a deep breath of the ocean breeze. From the cycle track on the second level of the bridge, we enjoy a breathtaking view of the skyline of Manhattan. New York, the mega city of superlatives, a melting pot of all ethnic groups of the world, heart and soul of America, the eighth wonder of the world of urban life and metropolis of art. And we are in the middle of it...
Car drivers display impeccable behaviour. If there is no cycle track, they keep a two-metre distance and slowly drive past us. All participants have a broad grin on their faces. "Over the past five years, New York has built up an unparalleled network of cycle tracks," says Thorsten, the travel guide. The cycle track is separated from the street with bollards as high as the curb. It leads us through the bustling Time Square at rush hour, and would even receive rapturous applause from critical German ADFC (General German Cyclists' Association) officials.
New York is Ireland, China, Mexico, Italy, Israel, Russia and Japan. All this often lies only a block apart from one another. Eight million people live here from 170 ethnic groups who speak 100 different languages. 60 museums, 400 art galleries, 600 theatres and 26,000 restaurants. Smells, sounds and the air stream. After two hours, we are dead beat. Not from the mere 15 kilometres of cycling, but from all the impressions flooding our heads.
Steve leads us to his favourite Italian restaurant. The group has already grown together well and most members are on first-name terms with each other. As a couple, we paid 2,485 euros to Landpartie. This includes the flight, travel guide, transfers, entrance fees, bike, hotel and Steve as the local guide. Sometimes we take advantage of the half board in the evening and sometimes at lunchtime, depending on the restaurant the group decides on. Trudi, a wiry woman in her mid-fifties from Munich is enthusiastic. "You cannot get to know a city in a more lasting way," she says going into raptures. She is right. We see places no tourist will ever see. We have pleasant talks with New Yorkers. They are open-minded, curious and want to know why we are riding around their city by bike. We eat only ethnic food, depending on the city quarter we are in. Whoever says the word "McDonald's" is considered to be a cultural philistine. And Steve sees himself not only as a bike guide in New York, but also as someone to talk to and discuss with. He likes to give tips for activities on non-biking days: special restaurants, museums or extraordinary events in the evening. He also acts as an art advisor.
Monday morning. It was a short night. The jet lag is still plaguing me. We drive to the peninsula of Coney Island, the southern most spot of Long Island located directly at the Atlantic coast. It smells like algae from the seaside and like burnt almonds. As we ride by the old-fashioned chair merry-go-round, the local amusement park makes a morbid impression on us. But why is Steve riding towards this ugly high-rise district. Because here, we can have lunch in the best Russian restaurant we have encountered so far. The apartment buildings around the restaurants belong to Russian immigrants. Little Odessa and an enchanting cycle track with a view of the Statue of Liberty leads us back. Phew, we did 60 kilometres. Now we've deserved the amusing evening at a Mexican restaurant with lots of beer.
The next day, we ride to the Bronx. We surely were a little scared, as we know from movies that the Bronx is a problem district with one of the highest crime rates in the world.  Gang wars, car theft, drugs and robberies during the day were typical for the southern part of the borough (South Bronx). Were. But "don't worry" says Steve, the former mayor Rudolph "Rudy" Giuliani had thoroughly cleaned up the entire district. Now we notice a lot of Hispanic restaurants in the area around the Yankee Stadium offering lots of specialities from the Caribbean. Such a mofongo is truly delicious. It is a large dumpling filled with meat.
We go shopping by bike. The Bronx offers numerous opportunities to buy things at a bargain. At first, my nose smells perfume, then washing powder and finally strange herbs. Fordham Road, which leads across the Bronx for several kilometres, offers clothing, drugstore products, computer accessories, fast food, gold jewellery, toys and furniture.
The days with Steve and the group go by like a flash. Trudi from Munich is already thinking about coming back next year, although she paid a steep 775 euros plus for a single room. The highlight is Steve's studio. Only his friends may enter there. Next door, an art professor designs his reliefs. A few streets away, a gallery owner sells Steve's pictures. We discuss with him about art and how it is marketed. We are impressed that there are collectors of Steve's pictures all over the world. However, he has not managed to make the breakthrough as an artist yet. After this, Steve shows us his flat, where we all drink a cup of tea. In the corner, we see some objects he wants to bring over to his studio in order to make sculptures out of them. There is a present from Nadja right on top: the gas mask.
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